On my side of the pond in North America, there has been a lot of social media activity making the rounds, from Facebook groups to influencers on Instagram and Tiktok.?One of the hot topics has been the “un-loaf” or “no rules loaf” baking method. It appears to be a modified version of YouTuber Ben Starr’s “beginners loaf recipe” which is essentially a hands-off bread made with:
- An unfed starter (a discard pulled straight from the fridge)
- Room temperature or cold water
- No starter refreshments
- White roller-milled flour
- No kneading or stretch and folds
The loose method for this bread is to mix, bulk-proof, shape, leave overnight (on the counter or in the fridge), and then bake in the morning. This sounds amazing for beginners or busy folks who just want to make a loaf of bread with no fuss and muss. However, it’s important to understand that this method uses a starter that has not been fed and therefore has not reached its peak. While some bakers have moderate successes with the unloaf method, others have complete failures. Here, understanding how different fermentation variables work is the key.
Temperature and acidity build up from long wait times between feeds. An acidic starter has a higher bacteria versus yeast count which affects the PH balance. When mixing the dough, temperature and desired dough temperature are critical. Most sourdough bakers in Facebook or Instagram groups are making their bread with white roller-milled flour devoid of fibre and nutrients. When fermenting whole grains using this “unloaf” or “no rules loaf” baking method, I have found the results to be very disappointing – like in a brick door stopper kind of way! If we don’t bake using whole grains, we are missing out on the fibre. When you don’t bake using whole grains, you miss out on the fibre and the methylation of the B vitamins, especially folate.
Dr Vanessa Kimbell has created an excellent diagram of fermentation controls.?The diagram depicts the see-saw-like balancing process needed to achieve optimum fermentation. When the ambient temperature is high, use cold water; when it’s low, use warm water. In simple terms, this is the way to attain a DDT (desired dough temperature).
I tested the “un-loaf” recipe method three times and had varying results depending on the condition of the starter I used. Only once did I have success using this recipe method, where the resulting crumb was open and nicely gelatinised, and the loaf’s crust formed a lovely ear (basically, all the things that make you go viral on Instagram). After that initial test, I had two really unsuccessful loaves. Both had a tighter crumb and spread more, which can be attributed to my deviating from the recipe by including whole grains.
Usually I make sure that my dough temperature is 28C with my kitchen in spring being a cool 19-20C. I find that I need to heat my water to 32C to get the dough temperature to 28C (which we have learned is Vanessa’s “SEXY TIME” for yeast activation as it is the desired temperature for the yeasts to multiply). In general, the colder the temperature, the slower the fermentation period, and the more likely it is that acidity will build up and acetic bacteria in the starter mix will increase. This acidity can break down gluten before the network webs have fully formed. If this happens, you can end up with a soupy mess. If you get acetic bacteria fermentation, the flavour of the bread will be strong and there will be very little yeast development, which will prevent the bread from properly rising. In this case, you will likely end up with a ‘fool’s crumb’ and a dense, gummy bread.
Dr Vanessa Kimbell wrote The 10 minute Sourdough Book for beginners and for busy people. Often beginners will have their hopes crushed after spending three days following a retarded method to a tee, only to end up with pancakes. It is frustrating, and all the professionals and long-time bakers have been there. When you want to make bread and have something to eat with minimal effort, it is easy to see the allure of the unfed starter bread. Just remember that the final product using this easier method usually incorporates roller-milled strong white flour and hence contains very little fibre, if any. Moreover, what you will end up with will essentially be “faux sourdough” bread.
I prefer to follow the ambient style method in which I mix in 20% whole grains and add very warm water (around 32C) to get the dough temperature to 28C. I knead the dough by hand in order to develop the gluten early on in the process. This means kneading the dough for 5 minutes and then letting it rest for 10 to 15 minutes, repeating these steps until a smooth ball is formed. With my Kitchen Aid pro-mixer on speed 2, I mix the dough for 2 minutes and let it rest for 10 minutes before I mix it again for another 2 minutes, or until the bowl is clean and the dough is collected around the spiral hook. At this point, I transfer my dough into my proofer which is set to 27C. Once the dough temperature rises to about 25C, I set the machine to a two hour limit, at which point it will automatically turn off. After this I bulk the dough for five to six hours, shape it, and put it into the fridge overnight. The next morning, I am able to take it out of the fridge, score it, and bake it.
To bake the unloaf, many people resort to the security of a pre-heated oven. Alternatively, some start off their bread in a completely cold oven, a method popularised by baker Elaine Boddy. To do this you start your bake in a cold oven, turn the oven temperature to 240C and remove the loaf after one hour. In my experience, ovens vary when it comes to heating up to a pre-set temperature and sometimes the wait can be longer than expected. This can result in an over-proofed dough and even the risk of an under-baked loaf. Elaine Boddy uses an enamelled roaster that heats up more quickly than a cast iron Dutch Oven or Challenger Bread Ware, which is probably key to her success with the cold start method.
If you decide to try baking an unloaf this summer, keep in mind that baking a successful sourdough loaf in the warm can be tricky. Knowing how and when to adjust the fermentation process of your dough may be just the trick you need to create bread that meets your expectations. Good luck, and happy baking!
Sourdough Club Teaching Assistant
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